According to a Mintel report, by 2025, 1.8 billion people will be living in countries of regions with absolute water scarcity. By 2030, the world will only have 60% of the water that it needs if current water usage doesn’t change. Some brands are already looking into alternatives in order to limit their dependence on water.
But before we go any further, just a quick reminder on how our skin works. In order to protect itself the skin secretes Sebum, an oily /waxy matter which purpose is to make the skin waterproof and to protect it from drying out. As we are getting older we produce less and less sebum and our skin becomes more sensitive to the cold, sun or pollution. Most of the cosmetics available on the market are water based formulation. Water fosters the penetration of the actives in the skin and is a cheap solvent for cosmetics formulations. However water does not fix dehydration issues for the deeper layer of the skin.
What are the benefits of waterless cosmetics?
No more preservatives
One of the big problem with water based formulation is the high content of water which makes the products highly sensitive to bacteria. For these products preservatives are necessary. In some cases, preservatives can cause some irritation or allergic reactions. As you take the water out you do not need preservatives anymore and you can keep them longer.
More concentrated formula
The water can be replaced by glycerin, hyaluronic acid or some botanical extracts allowing higher dosages of active ingredients. In some case it can even reach 100%. These water less formulas offer long term skin protection and better solubility for Vitamin C or Retinol.
Better for the environment
Less is more. As the formulas are more concentrated, consumers don’t need to use a lot. Therefore brands can sell their products in smaller packaging and reduce their impact on the environment.
Better suitability to all kind of skin type
Waterless products are more efficient at protecting the skin than water based products. Without preservatives and water, the risk of irritations or allergic reactions is significantly reduced.
These waterless cosmetics created the buzz in Korea and later on in the US.
Organic Flowers Ferment Water Cream
Korean brand Whamisa offers a range of ‘water’-free skincare products using botanical extracts instead of traditional purified water. It uses a natural fermentation process to distil and preserve the potency of select natural ingredients.
New in Italy from Zuccari under the [aloevera]2 brand is Extremely Delicate Aloe Shower Gel, said to be the “first shower gel in the world formulated without added water” – which is replaced with pure double-concentrate, non-pasteurized and non-carbon filtered aloe vera juice extracted using the “reversosmose” process. It contains prebiotics and probiotics, claimed to balance the bacterial flora; and the patented AJDA (hyaluronic acid from aloe), is said to maintain hydration.
Skin Savior Multi-Tasking Wonder Balm
Skin Savior removes dirt and makeup without stripping the skin, moisturizes, illuminates and even turns mineral powder into a glowing foundation treatment. With an antioxidant-rich blend of organic coconut oil, mango butter, jojoba and chia, this citrus and vanilla treat is the perfect solution for just about any of your skin’s needs.
Formulated with 90% natural tea tree extract, you can feel its power of revitalization as Tea Tree 90 Essence alleviates uneven skin tone, minimizes redness, refreshes the skin, and improves overall complexion. With over 800x more Vitamin C than an apple, your skin will thank you for the invigorating treatment that leaves it rejuvenated and radiant.